25th - 26th January 2014
Cauliflower, hazelnut and salami salad, Stevie Parle, The Telegraph
Happy Monday everyone. What about all that weather, eh? …
… lift chatter dispensed with, let’s get down to the weekend recipes.
Saturday was a real mixed bag. Some writers focused on one ingredient, others focused on a timely feast.
Telegraph top of the class
On the positive side of things, I thought Stevie Parle’scauliflower recipes in the Telegraph were excellent. The old cauliflower rarely gets the plaudits it deserves, what with all the other fancy brassicas available these days. So it was good to see a variety of ideas – from aloo gobi and a racy version of cauliflower cheese, to a saffron, sultana and pine nut job, as well as a raw salad (more on this below).
A tip of the hat, too, to Rose Prince’s Telegraph Baking Club column, which featured haggis and whisky sausage rolls. Great minds think alike.
Hugh FW was best of the Guardian’s myriad recipe contributors. I want to try out all three of his ideas.
Whilst Rose Prince helped out, old Hixy in the Independent was (predictably?) the weekend’s real champion of Burns Night. We got the full works: from Scotch broth, through haggis, venison and a cranachan with rhubarb. Good alternative there – raspberries are pretty rubbish at this time of the year.
Could do better?
After that it tailed off. I’m not sure steak au poivre was Rowley Leigh’s finest FT column.
But it was The Times that really failed to inspire. Sure, there were 10 colourful, easy healthy eating recipes. But when you really look into them, little of real interest. Of course the remit was ‘easy’. But do people really need instructions for a basic smoked mackerel salad, roast squash and rocket salad or chicken in a pitta? Trees died for this?
Also, there was something suspiciously similar about the photos of their four hams cooked in different ways.
(Photos: Romas Foord)
A perfect day for the papers
So on to Sunday – which was the perfect day to settle in with the papers, maybe cook something or head elsewhere to be cooked for. Again, it was either ingredient or feast focused.
I thought Diana Henry was good, yet again, in the Sunday Telegraph’s Stella magazine. A recipe for roasted mushrooms and onions with sherry and black pudding looked to me like the best of her suggestions for shrooms.
Gizzi Erskine, in the Sunday Times, provided a few ideas for Chinese New Year, which is next weekend. I think I’m most likely to give the jiaozi dumplings a try, but would love to know if anyone goes all the way and takes on the roast duck recipe, including with bicycle pump technique. There was also a new food feature (I think) called ‘The Classic’ – this week with an Angela Hartnett stuffed sea bream recipe.
(Photos clockwise from top left: Claire Winfield, Gareth Sambidge, Jonathan Lovekin, Sambidge)
Four words should send you in the direction of Nigel Slater’s butter themed Observer contribution this week: artichoke and anchovy butter.
There was, of course, much more, but those recipes were what I thought most worthy of remark. As an aside, this little project has already convinced me that the weekend recipes are definitely best on paper. Online reading is not nearly as enjoyable.
Cooking wise, I gave Stevie Parle’s raw cauliflower salad a go. Raw cauliflower with hazelnuts, parmesan and salami attracted. But I was also drawn to it because the recipe provided the kind of insight that I think is often edited out for the sake of brevity, but shouldn’t be: “add a really good few glugs of oil (you want this salad to feel overdressed) and mix everything well.”
Pictures of this are at the top of this mail, and also on Platter.
Weekend menu, 25th-26th January 2014.
Kipper, roasted carrot, orange and chicory salad with honey
Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall, The Guardian
Lemon sole, artichoke and tarragon butter
Nigel Slater, The Observer
Mark Hix, The Independent on Saturday
Did you have a nibble at this weekend’s food pages? Have we missed anything?
Join the conversation on Twitter! #chipwrap